A blackout shade does one job at one hour. It keeps the streetlight and the last of the sun out of the bedroom, so the room feels the same at seven in the evening as it does at seven in the morning. Installing it takes an afternoon and a second pair of hands. The steps below run from the first pencil mark to the last check.

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Before you drill

Stand in her room at the hour the light usually changes. Note where the glare comes from: the window itself, a gap at the top or the sides, a hallway light, or a reflection on the floor. The shade has to cover the source you saw, so if the light comes in on one side, you need to know which side. Read the box for the mounting style, inside the window frame or outside it, and for the wall types it supports.

Gather the tools and the pieces

You will need a tape measure, a level, a pencil, a drill with a bit for your wall type, a stud finder, a screwdriver, and the anchors that came with the kit. Check the count of brackets, screws, and anchors against the box before you open the window. A second person is useful for holding the shade while you mark the brackets, because a shade that slips can scratch the frame or bend its rod.

Measure the window, then the shade

Measure the width at the top, middle, and bottom of the frame, and use the narrowest number. Measure the height from the top of the frame to the sill. For an inside mount, the shade must fit within the depth of the window. For an outside mount, add the overlap the box calls for on each side so light stops at the edges. Write both sets of numbers down and compare them to the shade you bought. If they do not match, stop and check with the seller before you drill.

Mark the brackets level

Hold the level across the top of the frame and draw a straight line with the pencil. Set the bracket on the line, check that it is level, and mark the screw holes. Move the bracket until it sits square to the frame, then mark again. Use a stud finder before you drill into drywall. If no stud is where the bracket needs to go, use the anchors the kit provides, drilled to the depth the packaging shows.

Drill, set, and hang

Drill the pilot holes, push in the anchors, and screw the brackets in. Check that each bracket is still level before you tighten fully. Clip the shade's rod or headrail into the brackets, and feel for the snap that tells you it is seated. Lift it gently to check the seat before you let go.

Secure the cord or chain

Look at how the shade is operated. Cords and chains that hang loose are a hazard, so set the cord so it stays out of reach. Fix any cleat or tensioner the kit includes high on the wall or the frame, away from the bed and out of her reach. The Sources page lists the window-cord safety guidance we follow, so read it before you finish.

Test it at the hour that matters

Run the shade the full way up and down while you watch the edges. Look for light at the sides, the top, and the sill. Check that the shade does not drop when you let go, and that it stays at the height you set. Then wait until the hour the light usually changes and check the room again. A shade that looks fine at midday may leak at dusk, so the final check belongs at the time it has to work.

Keep it working

Once a season, look over the brackets and screws, and tighten anything that has loosened. Run the shade once to make sure it still moves freely. If the room changes, such as a new streetlight outside or a moved bed, repeat the first step and see whether the glare has moved with it.

For the whole evening plan this shade sits inside, read Start Here: Dusk to Morning, in Order.

The Blackout Shade Needs Level Brackets: Mount It Start to Finish, Then Check the Edges